Natural vs Synthetic Ingredients in Cosmetics: What I Choose and Why

Introduction: When the Label “Natural” Just Isn’t Enough

Let’s be honest—the beauty industry has gotten really good at looking green.
A leafy label here, a “clean” sticker there, and suddenly you’ve got what looks like a bottle of skincare straight out of a herb garden. But once you start flipping those bottles over and actually reading the ingredient list? That’s when things get interesting. Or, more accurately—confusing.

I used to fall for it too. If it said natural or plant-based, I’d toss it in my cart without thinking twice.
But the deeper I went into formulating my own products, the more I realised something important:
“Natural” is not a guarantee. It doesn’t mean safer. It doesn’t mean eco-friendly. And it definitely doesn’t mean that your skin or the environment understands what’s in that bottle.

The truth is—both synthetic and organic ingredients have their benefits.
Yes, even some synthetic cosmetics can be incredibly gentle, stable, and effective. And no, not every “organic” extract is automatically safe for sensitive skin or sustainably sourced.
So the real question isn’t “Is this natural?”
It’s:
Does my skin understand it? And does nature know what to do with it once it washes down the drain?

That’s how I landed in this nuanced, often messy, but deeply necessary conversation around natural vs synthetic ingredients in cosmetics.
Because behind the glowing “green” branding, there are:

• Ingredients derived from petroleum, cloaked in plant names
• Synthetic polymers that don’t biodegrade for decades
• Natural origin materials that sound good on paper but leave microplastics behind in real life

According to the Plastic Soup Foundation, over 3,800 tonnes of microplastics from cosmetics are released into the environment in Europe every year. And the worst part? Many of them are technically allowed under current EU definitions because they’re either water-soluble, semi-solid, or called “biodegradable”—even though they linger in our oceans and soil just the same.

It’s a perfect example of how the beauty industry thrives in the grey zone—marketing nature while formulating with synthetics. And that’s where we, as conscious creators and consumers, have to get sharper. More curious. A little more skeptical.

So today, I want to walk you through how I navigate this space—how I choose what goes into my formulations and, maybe more importantly, what stays out.
We’ll break down the difference between terms like natural, natural origin, and synthetic, explore how certain “green” ingredients can still harm the planet, and I’ll show you the criteria I use to select ingredients that are kind to your skin and the environment.

Because making your own skincare isn’t just a hobby. It’s a quiet act of rebellion in an industry that counts on you not reading the fine print.

7 Insights on Natural vs Synthetic Ingredients in Cosmetics

There’s a lot of noise out there when it comes to “clean beauty,” “green formulas,” and “plant-based skincare.” But here are the 7 core insights that shape how I choose ingredients—both for my skin and for the planet.

1. Natural doesn’t always mean harmless – marketing claims can be misleading without clear definitions.

2. Naturally occurring and naturally derived aren’t the same – and that distinction matters for both skin and environment.

3. Some synthetic ingredients serve a function—but not all are skin-friendly or biodegradable.

4. Responsibly sourced, plant-based ingredients are central to truly sustainable skincare.

5. The cosmetics industry often prioritises shelf life and texture over long-term skin health.

6. Your ingredient choices shape not just your routine, but the future of beauty standards.

7. You don’t need to be perfect—just informed and intentional. That’s where the change begins.

🌿 Natural, Naturally Derived, or Synthetic? Here’s What Cosmetic Labels Really Mean

If you’ve ever stood in the skincare aisle trying to decode a label, you’re not alone. The cosmetics industry loves its buzzwords—natural, naturally derived, clean, green-tech, eco-certified. It all sounds great… until you realise you’re not even sure what those words actually mean.

And here’s the thing: if you’re making your own skincare or just trying to be a more conscious consumer, that language matters.

So let’s break it down—plain and simple—especially when it comes to one of the most important distinctions in any ingredient list:
🔍 Naturally occurring vs. naturally derived vs. synthetic.

✳️ Naturally Occurring Ingredients = Found in Nature, as Is

A naturally occurring ingredient is exactly what it sounds like: something that exists in nature in its final form, no chemical modification needed. These ingredients are harvested and minimally processed—just enough to make them usable in skincare, without altering their fundamental structure.

🔍 Examples:

• Clays
• Hydrosols
• Collagen (from animal tissue)
• Guar gum and cellulose
• Hyaluronic acid (via fermentation—not “natural” in origin, but naturally occurring in form)

These are nature’s originals. And in most cases, they’re biologically compatible with skin and biodegradable in the environment. No translation needed.

✳️ Naturally Derived = From Nature, But Transformed

This is where the cosmetics industry gets clever.
An ingredient labeled as naturally derived starts from a natural source—like coconut oil or sugar—but it’s then chemically processed into something new. The starting point is “natural,” but the end result? That’s a different story.

🔍 Examples:

• Caprylic/capric triglyceride from coconut oil
• Sebacic acid from castor oil
• Glycerin from vegetable oils

And here’s a classic one:
➡️ Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer — yes, it’s made from natural monomers, but it’s still a synthetic copolymer when all is said and done.

These synthetic ingredients in skincare are often included for their stability, texture, or film-forming abilities. But they’re not the same as nature-made substances—and they may not break down cleanly in the environment.

🚫 Synthetic Ingredients = Entirely Lab-Made

Not all synthetic ingredients in skincare are inherently bad—but many are cheap, persistent, and offer no biological benefit to your skin. These compounds are built from petroleum or other industrial inputs and shaped into polymers, stabilisers, thickeners, and preservatives.

🔍 Examples:

• Acrylates Copolymer
• VP/VA Copolymer
• Polyquaterniums
• Dimethicone and PEGs

While some are tolerated by skin, others can interfere with the microbiome, clog pores, or contribute to long-term microplastic pollution—especially when they’re not biodegradable.

And according to reports from the Plastic Soup Foundation and scientific studies reviewed by ECHA, even water-soluble or “biodegradable” versions of these synthetics can stick around in soil, oceans, and even our bodies.

🧪 Why It Matters: Natural or Synthetic Isn’t the Only Question

The real issue isn’t always where an ingredient comes from—but how it behaves once it’s on your skin, and where it ends up after it goes down the drain.

What’s concerning is that synthetic ingredients in skincare can be disguised with feel-good labels. Many naturally derived polymers are presented as “eco-friendly,” even when their polymer chains mimic those of industrial plastics.

Some of these compounds—like acrylates or VP/VA copolymers—may linger in marine ecosystems or even accumulate in human tissue. Studies have found microplastics in bloodstreams, placentas, and organ tissue.
That’s not fear-mongering—it’s just the science catching up with our beauty habits.

My Take as a DIY Formulator?

“If my skin can’t understand it—and nature can’t break it down—it doesn’t belong in my jar.”

Over the years, I’ve come to deeply value naturally occurring ingredients. They’re time-tested, biologically compatible, and rarely need translation—your skin just gets them. Whether it’s clay, hydrosol, or a simple plant extract, these ingredients come with a kind of built-in wisdom from nature.

On the other hand, I’m more cautious with naturally derived materials. Sure, they sound natural, and they may come from plants, but the amount of chemical modification they go through often makes them behave more like synthetics. The problem? We still don’t fully understand how some of these semi-synthetic polymers affect our skin in the long run—or what they leave behind in the environment.

And when it comes to fully synthetic ingredients—especially petrochemical-based polymers and plastic-like substances—I simply avoid them. Not just because they’re non-biodegradable, but because they feel out of place in something meant to nurture skin and support sustainability.

Formulating, for me, is about harmony. With skin. With the planet. With common sense.

🧪 How I Choose Ingredients for My DIY Formulas

“Natural and organic” sounds good—until you realise there’s no universal standard definition or criteria for natural in cosmetics. That gives the industry plenty of room to stretch the truth.

So when I formulate, I don’t rely on labels. I rely on the ingredient itself—how it behaves on the skin, how it breaks down in nature, and what history (or science) has to say about it.

Here’s what guides me:

1. Biodegradability

If nature can’t break it down, I don’t want it in my skincare.

According to the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), thousands of tonnes of microplastics are released into the environment each year via cosmetics—often from ingredients labeled “biodegradable” or “naturally derived.” These include water-insoluble synthetic polymers and film-formers that behave like plastic in aquatic ecosystems, even if they sound eco-friendly on the label.
Source: ECHA – Microplastics

So when I read “copolymer,” “acrylate,” or “VP/VA,” I don’t just see a functional ingredient—I see something the ocean can’t digest.

2. Biocompatibility

My skin prefers ingredients it already recognises—naturally occurring ones like clays, hydrosols, fermented extracts, and botanical oils. These aren’t just gentle—they’re meaningful.

As LearnCanyon explains, many so-called “naturally derived” ingredients are heavily processed. Chemically speaking, they behave more like synthetics, and their long-term impact on skin (and the environment) can be unpredictable.

And when it comes to synthetic fragrances, the risk is even higher. One single word—“parfum”—can hide dozens of potential irritants, allergens, and endocrine disruptors.

3. Traditional Use

Before I trust a marketing claim, I trust time.

Ingredients like chamomile, calendula, rose, and neem have been used in traditional medicine for centuries. Their chemistry is understood not just by labs, but by generations of healers—and by skin. No hidden surprises. No pending research papers.

4. Transparent Labels (INCI > Marketing)

I always read the back of the bottle.

If I see ingredients like Simmondsia Chinensis or Kaolin, I feel calm.
But if the list includes Polyacrylamide, PEGs, or Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, I pause. Even when they’re described as “plant-based,” these man-made beauty additives often behave like plastics in the environment and offer little biological benefit to skin.

According to a review in PubMed (2024), even water-soluble cosmetic polymers can persist in aquatic systems and contribute to microplastic accumulation in marine organisms.
Source: PubMed 36681374

🌿 What I Use – and What I Leave Behind

People often ask me: “What ingredients do you actually use in your formulations?”
And the answer is simple—I choose what feels honest. Honest to skin. Honest to nature.

Because not all natural cosmetics are created equal. And not all synthetics are villains.
But let’s be clear: just because something improves spreadability and even application of skincare, or gives a formula consistency and a longer shelf life, doesn’t mean it belongs on your face—or in the ocean.

✅ Ingredients I Use (and Love)

These are the materials I come back to, over and over again. They’re biocompatible, often responsibly sourced, and they align with both skin function and planetary health.

• Cold-pressed plant oils – jojoba, rosehip, calendula-infused oils
• Clays – kaolin, rhassoul, green clay – You can read more about how I choose sustainable clays in cosmetics here.
• Fermented actives – such as natural hyaluronic acid from bacterial fermentation
• Hydrosols and botanical extracts – especially those with traditional use
• Natural emulsifiers and thickeners – like lecithin, xanthan gum, and cetearyl alcohol from plant sources

These ingredients may not give a product the “perfect” slip or glossy texture that some synthetic versions of certain ingredients are designed for, but they’re kinder alternatives. Kinder to skin. Kinder to soil. Kinder to marine life.

❌ Ingredients I Avoid (No Matter How Pretty the Packaging)

Some ingredients are made to impress—not to nourish. These are the ones I gently leave out, even if they’re common in natural cosmetics (especially the greenwashed kind).

• Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer – often labeled “plant-based,” but it’s a synthetic polymer that resists biodegradation
• Acrylates and VP/VA Copolymers – used to improve consistency and shelf life, but functionally behave like plastic
• “Green” synthetics – ingredients that sound natural but are created through intense chemical modification
• Fragrance (Parfum) – unless it’s clearly declared as a single essential oil or CO2 extract, it’s a no from me

And yes—many of these ingredients do bring smoothness, stability, or even a better glide. They help with spreadability and even application of skincare, no doubt.
But I’d rather have a balm that melts slowly into the skin than one that glides like silicone but sits like plastic.

A Personal Rule:

If my skin doesn’t understand the ingredient – neither do I.

I want my skincare to feel like an extension of nature—not a manufactured performance.

And that means choosing kinder alternatives that nourish on all levels: texture, biology, and environmental impact.

✨ Conclusion: More Than Natural – It Has to Make Sense

In a beauty world obsessed with performance, texture, and perfection, it’s easy to get swept up by high-tech ingredients and the promise of flawless skin.
But for me, real beauty isn’t about chasing beauty standards. It’s about choosing ingredients that are in harmony—with our bodies, and with nature.

Yes, I choose natural over synthetic. But not because it sounds better on the label.
I choose it because I trust plant-based ingredients that my skin understands—ingredients that have roots, not patents.

That doesn’t mean I reject all innovation.
But if a lab-made compound, no matter how effective, behaves more like plastic than nourishment… it’s not skincare, it’s surface-care.

There’s a place for chemical ingredients in the world of cosmetics—some are gentle, stable, and skin-supportive. But too often, they’re used to mimic nature, not to work with it.

And honestly? I’d rather lean into imperfection—with clay under my nails and oil that takes an extra minute to absorb—than pretend my skin needs fixing.

Because for me, this isn’t about avoiding synthetics.
It’s about choosing what’s truly aligned.
With skin. With soil. With sense.

❓FAQ: Let’s Clear a Few Things Up

Are synthetic ingredients in skincare always bad?

Not always. Some synthetic compounds are stable, well-researched, and skin-compatible.
But the problem is: many beauty brands use them simply to mimic nature, extend shelf life, or create texture—without considering long-term skin impact. I prefer natural substances that speak the same language as skin.

What’s the difference between natural and naturally derived ingredients?

A natural ingredient exists as-is in nature.
A naturally derived one starts from a natural source, but is chemically modified into something new. The distinction matters—especially when natural and synthetic ingredients are blended and still labeled “clean.”

It’s why we need a clear definition or criteria for natural skincare—one that actually reflects reality, not marketing spin.

Can natural cosmetics be just as effective as synthetic ones?

Yes—if they’re thoughtfully made.
There’s a myth that natural skincare is always gentle or always effective. But the truth is, there’s some not-so-great natural skincare out there too—just like there are good and bad synthetics. The difference comes down to formulation, skin compatibility, and integrity in sourcing.

For me, ingredients that are closer to nature tend to work with the skin—not against it.

Why do so many brands still use synthetic copolymers?

Because they provide consistency and uniformity in batch production.
They help maintain spreadability, shelf life, and that “silky” feel we associate with mainstream products. But smoother doesn’t mean smarter. There are kinder alternatives that align with sustainable practices and the body’s natural rhythms.

How do I know if an ingredient is responsibly sourced?

Look for transparency over perfection.
Ask where it comes from, how it’s processed, and if it supports sustainable practices. Responsible sourcing isn’t just about the planet—it’s about honesty, traceability, and choosing quality over quantity.

Is natural always better than synthetic?

Not always—but often.
Natural and synthetic ingredients both have their place. But for me, if a natural substance offers similar results without disrupting the skin barrier or building up in ecosystems, that’s the clear winner.

Nature knows what she’s doing. I’m just here to follow her lead.

Some natural products are truly transformative—especially when they’re built around whole, plant-based ingredients.
I dive deeper into that in this post on botanical skincare.

🌱 Ready to Choose Better?

If this post made you look at your ingredient list a little differently—good.
That means you’re already paying attention.

You don’t need to be a chemist to make mindful skincare choices.
You just need curiosity, clarity, and the courage to question what’s been sold as “normal” for too long.

Whether you’re making your own balm or simply rethinking what you put on your shelf, you have power.
Power to choose ingredients that work with your skin, not against it.
That respect the earth, not just marketing trends.
That belong.

Let’s keep learning, questioning, and creating better—together.

With love, always,
Kristina 🌿